For Thanksgiving this year we decided to try something different; nothing is like my mother’s turkey so I wasn’t even going to try. So we decided to not only try something different but completely new. It was a wonderful opportunity to just go out to dinner and celebrate that way.

I had read about the restaurant Omero up in Pian dei Giullari/Arcetri right above Florence behind Piazzale Michelangelo organizing an evening with a Piedmont menu, giving you a chance to taste the regional cuisine as well as regional wines, such as the Barolo and Moscato d’Asti. I’d heard of Omero before but had never gone so this was the perfect chance to try it out.
As we arrived, we realized the front part is a store with lots of prosciutto hanging from the ceiling while the rest of the small shop contained oils, cheeses, sauces and much more. So even if you don’t eat here, it is the perfect stop for local specialties. We were a bit late yesterday so quickly headed further in and were soon seated in the main area just beyond.

The ambiance of the trattoria is elegant without being pretentious, the room is surrounded by large windows that have a view over the hills and of Florence. A large fireplace was to our back but it wasn’t lit last night, it hasn’t been particularly cold yet in Florence.

Getting to the menu, we had as a starter Tarta con Bagna Caoda + Battuta di Fassona con Castelmagno di Pianura: Wow, the tartare was delicious and I don’t generally eat it! It was infused with a citrus flavor making it really tasty. It was accompanied by a cool vegetable cake and a small selection of raw vegetables to be dipped in the warm, spicy sauce known as bagna caoda.

We were then served Panissa Vercellese, which we soon discovered was a risotto with beans. It was quite delicious and filling, in retrospect maybe a bit too much!

The main dish consisted of two types of meat, the Lonza di Maiale con Castagne were slices of roast pork with a chestnut sauce on top while the Brasato al Cacao e Barolo - was Barolo braised beef served with a cocoa sauce on top. Both were surprisingly delicious and very different from what is local Tuscan combinations.

The cheese plate with three types of cheese came next: a soft, creamy cheese similar to Gorgonzola but not as strong, a piece of the Castelmagno di Pianura we tasted in our starter dish which was semi-aged and a last, much aged piece of cheese. I don’t know the names but I’m going to have to find out, as they were all three very good in themselves. By this point my taste buds were a bit on overload, though.

Our dessert was called Dolce della Miando, which we discovered to be an amaretto based cake with pears, drizzled with chocolate sauce – yummy! Lastly, we were offered a few pieces of the softest, melt in your mouth chocolate with hazelnuts I’ve ever tasted. We were in heaven, maybe in glutton heaven given the amount we had put into ourselves .

Last but not least came surprise entertainment provided by Francesco Meraviglia who turned some card tricks for all of us: we truly do not know how he did managed to invisibly move cards from one stack of cards to another being held by members of the audience or how he managed to guess which ones were pulled by others from the deck. It was a great conclusion to the evening.

The wines

An important component of the dinner were the wines. Every dish was accompanied by a regional wine, all from the Poderi Luigi Einaudi estate for this special night. The first two courses were accompanied by the estate’s Dogliani – Vigna Tecc from 2009 which was light and fruity. The main meat dish was accompanied by the Barolo Costa Grimaldi 2006, also the perfect full bodied wine to go with the tasty sauces covering the meats. The cheese plate was accompanied by the Barolo Nei Cannubi 2004, full and velvety to counter as well as balance the strong flavors of the aged cheese. With our dessert nothing less than a deliciously fruity Moscato d’Asti.

The Gastronomic Tour

The evening was the first dedicated by Omero to the regional cuisines of Italy as part of the “Gastonomic Tour of Italy” to celebrate Ital’s 150 years of unity. In the following months, regions from the north and south will alternate to give both locals as well as visitors to Florence the chance to taste the great variety of Italian cuisine without having to travel all over the boot.

Dinner was € 40 per person, reservations are a must for these dinners. Given the chance to travel to another region of Italy through a meal, we look forward to going back soon, maybe to Sicily or Calabria. On any other night, you can still enjoy the trattoria’s menu of traditional Florentine specialties served in an elegant setting and a large wine cellar with over 300 wines. We will also have to head back to Trattoria Omero to taste their local dishes soon!

You can find more information on Trattoria Omero on their website as well as stay tuned for future special dinner events through their Facebook page.

Searching for great Piedmont Barolo and Moscato d’Asti? Take a look at Poderi Luigi Einaudi.

White truffle season is from October through December and simply grow wild, attached to the roots of oak, hazel, poplar and beech trees. They’ve tried to cultivate them, it can’t be done! It is a highly sought after flavoring by foodies worldwide that this autumn will be hard to find, even in Tuscany’s San Miniato, the white-truffle capital of the region. About a quarter of all Italian white truffles originate from the San Miniato area but there are truffles to be found all over various areas of Tuscany. Lower than average rainfall has made for truffles a real “treasure hunt” for apasionados!

The hunt for the “white treasure”, if not in the woods, can be at San Miniato’s Truffle Festival/Market this weekend and on the following two weekends (19/20 and 26/27) this November.

From 10am until 8pm, you get your chance to try everything imaginable with the delicate taste of truffles as well as buy all these tasty treats plus regional products. From white truffles to fresh cheeses to olives and sun-dried tomatoes to fresh means to wines, you’ll get a chance to taste and breathe the flavor of truffles along with the Tuscan products foodies dream of. In addition to the festival tents from which you can make a meal, restaurants in the town also abound offering affordable, truffle-laden menus.

The aroma of this underground fungus has been described as “disconcerting” and, like some flavors, the taste can be unimpressive by itself. But, when added to a plate of pasta, veal or even scrambled eggs, thin shavings of white truffle can transform a dish. Little is more – a good thing since the cost of the white truffle has shot up, doubling in less than a week for larger pieces (€2.500-3.000 per kilo). The increase is due to lower than average rainfall in the area as well as higher demand.

Given the popularity of the festival, you might have to reserve accommodations in San Miniato well in advance. But it’s proximity to Florence (less than an hour drive) also makes it a great destination as a day trip. San Miniato is also reacheable by train.

View the festival program on the San Miniato Promozione website.

Chianti wines from the Chianti Rufina DOC area around the town of Dicomano in Mugello met with great success at a recent presentation at Gross Umstadt, Dicomano’s sister city in Germany.

Both Fattoria il Lago and Frascole, two local wineries from Dicomano, went to Gross Umstadt to present six wines on a special dinner organized at a well-known city restaurant to promote the wines from Dicomano as well as other gastronomic products such as cheese and olive oil. The wines presented during the evening were: Chianti Rufina (Frascole and Il Lago), Chianti Riserva (Il Lago and Frascole), Venia (Frascole) and Vin Santo (Il Lago).

Each of the six wines were paired with Tuscan dishes especially prepared for the evening and tasting notes were presented by Enrico Lippi and Filippo Spagnoli, members of the two family-owned wineries. The public included wine producers from Gross Umstadt (famous for its own production of Riesling wine) as well as the mayor Joachim Ruppert expressed appreciation for the wines as well as the tasting notes by Lippi and Spagnoli.

Traveling and eating out during the holiday period can be tricky as Italians themselves want to spend the main holidays with their families. There are many restaurants that will be open on the 24th and for lunch on the 25th as well as for New Year’s Eve (most restaurants offer a single “cenone” dinner at a fixed price and lasts well past the midnight toast. We recommend you make your restaurant reservations as soon as you can if you already know you’ll be here and dining out on those days, especially for New Year’s Eve.

Here are a few of our favorites – if you already have another favorite, it would be best to get in touch and find out what their hours will be.

Osteria Belle Donne - casual, fun place to eat at, quite cosy and small. From December 24 to January 2, the restants will always be open except for the 25th. (Via della Belle Donne 16r, Tel 055 238 2609).

Cavolo Nero – in the Oltrarno area, this restaurant offers local ingredients in creative dishes. Open generally only for dinner but will be open for Christmas day lunch and on New Year’s Eve with a fixed menu of 100 euro per person. (Via dell’Ardiglione 22, Tel. 055 294 744).

Trattoria 13 Gobbi - Always open from December 24 to January 2 except for Christmas day dinner. Check out their plan for New Year’s Eve dinner celebrations. (Via della Porcellana 9r Te. 055 284 015).

Trattoria al Trebbio – warm, informal trattoria with friendly waiters. Open on the 24th all day, on the 25th only for lunch and on the 31st on a first seating regular menu, second seating with a special dinner. (Via delle Belle Donne 49r, Tel. 055 287 089).

The days are dreary, wet and cold but if you’re here this weekend anyway, why not enjoy some time enjoying the best decadent treat there is at the Chocolate Fair in Piazza Santa Croce? Even with the rainy weather, the fair goes on under tents.

The fair started yesterday and goes on through Sunday, from 10 am to 10 pm. There are stands from local chocolatiers from Florence and Tuscany but also from the rest of Italy as well as France, Spain and Belgium.

Here is an idea of some of the free tastings or events available but, since space is limited, go ahead and email info@fieradelcioccolato.it right away to reserve your spot!!

From Friday through Sunday: in the afternoons the consortium of Maremma Milk Producers will be offering children free samples their new line of milk snacks called “Fresca Bontà” while throughout the day free tastings of fresh whipped cream will be offered , perfect with chocolate!

Today, February 5 – Piazza Santa Croce

4 p.m. – Tastings area (area degustazioni)
Tastings of how chocolate is used in the kitchen, from savory dished to desserts. Only 20 spots, reserve your place by emailing the address above.

5 p.m. – Fair area
The local RDF 102.7 radio station will be interviewing participants and asking their opinions. Free gadgets for everyone!

7.15 p.m. – Via della Pergola 18/32 – Dance salon in the Pergola Theater
“Lo spettacolo del gusto”: Simone de Castro and Rossella Gatti from the artisan workshop l’O located on Via Pietrapiana, 44r experiment with chocolate to create new and exciting tastes and matchings.
6 experiements on each night for a total of 12 different symphonies of aromas and tastes. Each participant will receive a gift. Reservations required by email, cost is € 10,00, 30 spots available.

Saturday, February 6

10.30 a.m. Piazza Santa Croce
In front of the church, a short class of streching and easy exercises and at the end all participants will receive a classic energetic snack: bread and chocolate. Participation is free as long as you register by email, 30 spots available.

2 p.m. in front of church again, the Company of the Red Wolf will exhibit a mock battle with medieval swords with active participation of the public.

3.30 p.m. – Tastings area (area degustazioni)
Winners of Florentine Sweets will be announced by the major. Tastings of the winning sweet will be available.

7.15 p.m. – Via della Pergola 18/32 – Dance salon in the Pergola Theater
Second evening of the “Lo spettacolo del gusto” as above for Friday.

Sunday February 7

11 a.m. Tastings area (area degustazioni)
Simone De Castro will interview 4 chocolatiers present at the fair: the presentations will be accompanied with free samples

3 p.m.  Tastings area (area degustazioni)
Presentation by Andrea Trapani, executive chef of Apicius, ACF Fiorentina and STILNOVO Catering in collaboration with Andrea Bianchini and Giuseppe Calabrese called “Cambio consistenze e contrasto temperature del cioccolato”, with tastings
30 spots, free participation, book your spot through email.

For more information, see http://www.fieradelcioccolato.it/

The first impression I got was that there’s something very wrong with this law, that it somehow seems to be inspired by some sort of gastronomic racism! Then, reading more about it (like here) it turns out that the law also regards other fast food type of places, such as pizza shops that sell pizza by the slice. It seems, however, that the kebab points are particularly under fire because it was said that “there are too many, they are ugly and smell”.

A representative of the city government explains that inside the walls, in 4 square kilometers, there are already 5 kebab places and several other fast food establishments. These places are often really small with no place to sit down and eat. In their opinion, they constrain people to eat in the piazzas sitting under the city’s main monuments, often leaving the remains of their meals on the streets. The new law is intended to maintain the city’s decorum by limiting the growth of these type of food shops, while at the same time promoting traditional restaurants that prepare typical dishes of both Lucca and Tuscany.

Explained in this manner, the law does not seem that bad. There are already similar laws in other cities. For example, on the boardwalk in Viareggio only certain types of shops, those that “increase the touristic value of the city”, are allowed. Still I believe they could have been more diplomatic and not refer to food of a “different ethnicity” in describing the fast food places that will no longer be allowed to open within the historic walls.

It would be interesting to hear the opinion of someone living in Lucca.

In Tuscany, like in many areas of the world, the Christmas holidays are a special moment to spend time with family. And what better way than to spend time together than over a nice meal?
Christmas Day is a very special occasion and a fine meal is part of the grand celebration, anyone on a diet sets it aside for the entire day.

Christmas lunch today is a feast based on a centuries-old menu that still pleases both the old and the young.

The women in the family generally start the preparations for the meal days in advance, especially if the tradition of serving fresh pasta such as tortellini or lasagna is being respected.
The dishes that make up the traditional Tuscan holiday menu are very simple and basic, based on a peasant tradition that cherishes genuine quality ingredients. Transforming such ingredients into great dishes takes a lot of experience in the art of cooking! Even if traditionally from Northern Italy, a Panettone or Pandoro are also part of every Christmas meal in all Italian homes.

Do you wish to try a new dish for your family this year with a traditional Tuscan dish?
We would like to share our Christmas menu with all of you, a sample of what our family prepares every year which you might like to try out this year.

Appetizers:

• Liver patè crostini http://www.tuscanrecipes.com/recipes/crostini-fegato.html
• Crostini with ragù – http://www.tuscanrecipes.com/recipes/tuscan-ragu.html
   

First course:

• Tortellini al brodo – http://www.tuscanrecipes.com/recipes/tortellini-brodo.html
  or
• Potato Gnocchi with ragù sauce.

Gnocchi are not a typical Tuscan dish, but they are commonly prepared across all of Italy. They are small dumplings made of cooked potatoes and flour cooked in boiling water for a few minutes and then dressed quite simply with ragù meat sauce or with butter and sage.
 
Main course:

• Gran bollito (with a capon) and sauces http://www.tuscanrecipes.com/recipes/gran-bollito.html
• Arista http://www.tuscanrecipes.com/recipes/arista-fiorentina.html
   

Side dish:

• Green salad
• Baked potato squares (prepared with garlic and rosemary)

Dessert:

• Dried fruit
• Typical Tuscan sweets

There are many different types of Tuscan sweets that are made around Christmas time, including the ricciarelli and panforte which are both traditionally made in Siena ( http://www.tuscanrecipes.com/recipes/panforte-siena.html), the cavallucci (large cookies made with nuts and candied fruit) and the very yummy cantucci di Prato ( http://www.tuscanrecipes.com/recipes/cantucci-di-prato.html ). All of these sweets go perfectly well with a Tuscan Vinsanto, a sweet dessert wine called “holy wine”.

The family Christmas lunch usually lasts a few hours during which all of the delicious dishes prepared by cook are enjoyed (and many compliments for the wonderful treats are dished out), enjoying the fine meal and conversation. It is a chance to relax and enjoy the good food and company. At this point someone almost always says that no one eats quite like they used to, remembering a time when Christmas was one of the few special occasions when the family binged on food. A family Christmas is also a time for memories…