Discover Tuscany’s Blog: exploring Tuscany and all its hidden corners…

Everyone loves Christmas. I think Florence is magical during this time of the year. Maybe because of the thousands of lights along the streets, maybe because of  the nice Christmas decorations in the shops – or maybe because I got married in December .  I love Florence at Christmas time.

Starting from Piazzale Michelangelo, you can admire a breathtaking view of Florence that looks like a postcard. When it’s dark, everything lights up and you can see the Christmas trees and decorations in homes through the windows. Coming down into the city and crossing the Arno, you can feel that Christmas is all around. This year the municipality of Florence lit up all the avenues with thousands of blue Christmas lights which warm the atmosphere from Piazza Beccaria to Fortezza da Basso.

Most of the streets in the city center are also decorated and illuminated for Christmas. Via dei Calaziuoli is fabulously decorated with thousands of lights set as a rich drapery – it looks like the Red Carpet! Even smaller streets such as via della Condotta and others are illuminated by colorful lights shaped as snowflakes or falling snow. Then in Piazza della Repubblica stands a grand Christmas tree near to the characteristic merry-go-round for children. The shops and their windows are also embellished by Christmas decorations as well as Christmas trees decorated with various trimmings and colorful lights. Florence is just missing Santa’s bells to be perfect.

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Christmas time is coming and as usual December in Florence and in its surroundings means you can find many special events and markets related to Christmas.

Here are a few of the upcoming events in Florence, as well as in Mugello valley and Chianti region:

• German Christmas Market

In Florence in Piazza Santa Croce from December 2nd to the 20th you’ll find the German Christmas Market with its characteristic wooden cabins. Opening hours from 10 am to 10 pm.

• Florence Noël

Christmas Trade Fair at Stazione Leopolda in Florence from the 5th to the 13th of December. It opens from Friday to Tuesday from 10 am to 10 pm and on Wednesday and Thursday from 3 pm to 10 pm. Ticket costs € 7,50; reduced ticket is € 6,00; children under 3 years have free admission.

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In the last issue of Venerdì di Repubblica I read a well-written but highly critical article about the Uffizi Gallery and more in general about the conditions of Italy’s cultural heritage. The article throws light on the situation artistic and cultural treasures in Italy find themselves in and, in particular, focuses on Italy’s top museum (second only if we were to consider the Vatican Museums).
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The Firenze Come Era museum is a true hidden gem in Florence.

It is a really small museum sharing space in the Convent of the Oblate with the city public library (awesome library – go to the last floor to the cafe and enjoy the view of the Duomo as you munch on a panino sandwich).

The name of the museum – literally “Florence as it was” – indicates the nature of the collection. Divided into two sections, the prehistoric/Roman history of Florence on one wing and maps and visual representations of the city on the other, the museum visually shows how Florence used to be in past times.

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Yesterday was a beautiful day for Florence and for both residents and visitors alike. Aside from the near perfect weather, Piazza del Duomo officially became pedestrian only and was closed off to the traffic that for the last 60 years has wound its way around a corner of one of the most famous squares in Italy. The smog blackened facades of the Baptistery and Cathedral were marked by the passage of over 2.100 buses and hundreds of taxis, scooters, cars and trucks through the square every single day. Buildings and pedestrians alike will certainly benefit from the cleaner air and diminished noise of traffic.

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From now up to the 18th of December, the Vasari Corridor is once again open for visits but only with reservations. These visits, guided by special staff from the Supervisory board, are only offered for short periods of time during the year for small groups but at a reasonable price (14 euro which includes entrance into the Uffizi, which you can visit beforehand).

The famous corridor, built in 1565 by Giorgio Vasari to celebrate the wedding between Francesco I de’ Medici to Joan of Austria, connects Palazzo Vecchio to the Uffizi Gallery and to the Palazzo Pitti. It was a special passageway reserved exclusively for use by the Medici so that they could move freely from their residence at the Palazzo Pitti to Palazzo Vecchio, the seat of government.

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Crowd awaiting for the start from Cesare Prandelli

Corri la Vita was a huge success with thousands of both residents and visitors alike showing up in Piazza della Signoria this morning to take part in the benefit run against breast cancer. We found ourselves in a festive atmosphere crowding the piazza together with over 15.000 other people, many running and many doing the shorter walking course. It was fun to participate again this year because it is one those events that makes you happy to live in Florence. The 10,2km course that we did went through the main historical center, passing by the Duomo and Piazza della Repubblica, before heading toward Porta Romana and Poggio Imperiale, then through the Boboli Gardens up to the Forte Belvedere. For the record, despite the many hours passed in front of the computer, we were able to run the whole course in a little over an hour and are quite proud of our results.

the Carro Matto from last year

If you’re in Florence this weekend, plan on hanging around the area between Piazza della Signoria and Piazza del Duomo between 4 and 5 p.m. to get a glimpse of the “carro matto“, which literally means crazy cart. The cart is pulled by a pair of white Chianina oxen and carries over 1500 wine bottles, the traditional flask ones with straw bottoms, that are artfully assembled and presented to the ruling government in Palazzo Vecchio. The cart is preceded by a parade in historical costume, the beat of drums and the show of Florence’s flag throwers which perform in Piazza della Signoria at the very end.  You can read our post on the Carro Matto from last year as well as see our gallery of photographs of the parade and flag throwers in Piazza della Signoria. The setting is incredible and it is fun to see all the Renaissance costumes .

Parade starts around 3.30 pm near the Palagio di Parte Guelfa and heads first to the Duomo where the wine is blessed by religious authorities. The cart then proceeds down Via Calzaiuoli and stops at Chiesa di San Carlo dei Lombardi where an offering of wine is made, then arrives in Piazza della Signoria around 5 pm. The flag throwing exhibition is set to start around 5.30 pm. Hope you enjoy the show!

This coming up Sunday a large part of Florence will be in Piazza della Signoria for a special event, the 7th edition of Corri La Vita. It is an event that brings together charity, physical activity, culture and social commitment in the form of a race and walk on Sunday September 27 with thousands of participants each year. One can participate in a 10km competitive race or join in the walk of 5km.

The important part in participating is contributing to the fight against breast cancer since all proceeds go to the Oncological Rehabilitation Center of Florence. There are many well-known TV and sport stars that participate every year, with an official t-shirt designed by Salvatore Ferragamo. This year the shirt is bright orange, a color selected by Corri La Vita fans on Facebook.

We participated last year and it is an event that truly makes you feel part of the city, especially since you walk and run through Florence’s beautiful streets in the historical center. We’ve decided once again to participate in the 10km race…. taking our time, of course, the important thing is to arrive at the finish line.

For further information on registration and course of the race, you can visit the official site of Corri la Vita.

P.S. You can register for the walk on Saturday in Piazza della Signoria from 10am to 5pm as well as for the race from 10am to 1pm. For the 10km race you need a medical certificate attesting you can participate in competitive races. Final registration for the walk will be from 8-9am on race day, the start is for 9.30am – see you there!

For two weeks now, standing in the shadow of the imposing Palazzo Vecchio in Florence near Neptune’s Fountain and the monument to Cosimo I, visitors have been able to admire “Two Rivers“.
That is the title of the great bronze statue, over 4 meters tall, that New York artist Greg Wyatt created and positioned in front of the entrance of the Sala d’Arme in Palazzo della Signoria. The sculpture, donated by the artist to the city of Florence, represents the Arno and Hudson rivers, the two main waterways that divide the two cities of Florence and New York, the two cities residing within the artist’s heart.

“Two Rivers” will remain in this location until the end of October while the exhibit dedicated to works by Wyatt continues inside the Sale d’Arme in Palazzo Vecchio, after which it might be transferred permanently to Piazza Poggi. The use of the conditional is necessary because the placement of the sculpture in Piazza della Signoria a few weeks ago has raised several objections and a debate on the statue’s future collocation.